Sail through the historical canals
Haarlem has the same evocative cobbled streets, heart-wrenchingly pretty canals, historic buildings and cosy cafes that make Amsterdam so incredibly popular. But it comes with a fraction of the crowds. Hire a sloop or an electric motorboat on the banks of the Spaarne, a serpentine twist of water that winds through the city eventually feeding into the North Sea Canal via the Ringvaart, and sail through the old town's canals spying the 18th-century De Adriaan windmill, chic cafe terraces, yachts passing under lift bridges and the striking faćades of 18th-century museums.
The slower pace of historic Haarlem invites a more sedate rate of exploration, and the skippered motorboats in historic cruisers, and self-driven sloops found in Haalem's canals, help you do just that. Most boat rentals are available without a licence, giving easy access to the city's charming canals and nearby villages like Spaarndam, Heemstede and Molenplas lake via the Spaarne River.
A part of the western variant of the standing-mast ship route runs through Haarlem, allowing access to the city for motor yachts and sailing ships, and it's possible to moor for free in Haarlem for three hours, with charges based on stay duration and the length of your vessel after that.
The charming old architectures that line Haarlem's canals look most authentic from the water. Sail the Spaarne to see the Adrian windmill, museums and galleries such as Galerie De Waag and along the river to the relatively quiet neighbourhood that bookends the banks at each side of the Lange Brug lift bridge. Afterwards, head north of the train station to leafy Kleverparkbuurt and its enviable collection of 1930's villas. In the evening, choose a cocktail boat or a romantic candlelight cruise to see the city's bridges, streets and moored yachts ambiently lit for the evening.
Disembark at the Molen de Adriaan (the Adriaan Windmill) to learn more about the Netherlands' most famous residents. Stroll or cycle to the Grote Markt, Haarlem's antique city square to see its eclectic collection of typical Dutch gables, the 14-century City Hall and a delightful Saturday food market stuffed full of cheeses and tulips (a great place to pick up some supplies for a picnic aboard your boat). From here, seek out one of the *hofjes* of Haarlem (such as Witte Herenstraa). These little residential squares are hidden behind dusty gates and down missable alleyways and were once attached to almshouses for the poor but now provide a serene respite for residents.
Haarlem has long since been regarded as one of the Netherlands' best shopping cities, but recently, the Haarlem Shopping Weekend puts the local designers, stores and business owners under the spotlight with a weekend devoted to shopping with pop-ups and markets spilling out to the cobbled roads along the canals. For those short on time, Haarlem can make a stress-free day trip, as the train from Amsterdam takes 15 minutes, and arrives at the stunning art-nouveau train station, filled with colourful tile tableaus pointing the way to the old first-class, second-class and third-class waiting areas.
Most of Haarlem's rental boats are found in the shadows of the old warehouses and the charming windmill in Haarlem Centrum, but Spaarndam is a good option for yachts and cabin cruisers.
You'll find the majority of rental boats in Haarlem Centrum around the Spaarne River and De Nieuwe Gracht canal. This is also where you'll find hotels, Airbnbs, sights like the stunning UNESCO-listed Teylers Museum and many of the town's highest-rated restaurants, making it as ideal for boat rentals as it is for soaking up Haarlem's charms.
Just east of the city centre, Oude Amsterdamsebuurt is characterised by leafy streets and the Herensingel canal, a perfect starting point for a boat rental, but it's also home to an imposing 14th-century city gate: the Amsterdamse Poort, which marks the starting point of an old route between Haarlem and Amsterdam. If you're visiting Amsterdam too, look out for the Haarlemmerpoort, which marks the end of the route.
Perched on the mouth of the Spaarne River and the IJ lake, Spaarndam offers a serene base just a short boat ride away from Haarlem and the North Sea Canal, which links to Amsterdam, eventually opening up on the vast Markmeer.
Boat hires are prevalent throughout Haarlem, with small motorboats, perfect for couples and families sailing around the city, and cabin cruisers, yachts and large tenders ideal for groups.
A wide variety of motorboats are available, many in Oude Amsterdamsebuurt and the Spaarne River. But some can be delivered to a mooring of your choice, often for free.
Travel north up the Spaarne and eventually, the green fields and inky blue Mooie Nell lake will open up on the horizon. Hire a cabin cruiser here to explore the lake and cruise through the countryside along the Windmill Route.
Lots of converted Tenders line the canals around Haarlem, many big enough for large groups and onboard BBQs and picnics. A good spot for hiring one is just south of the central station, convenient for day-trippers and a good way to see the city.
As masted yachts (up to 6 metres) are allowed to sail through central Haarlem it's common to see yachts in flotilla sailing along the Spaarne River, and there are several options for yacht rentals around Haarlem.
Historic barges from the 1930s finished with wood and with enough space (with covered sections should the weather not hold) for wedding parties, and tour groups grace the waters of Haarlem, and are rentable, with a skipper, by the hour for elegant cruises of the town, day and night.
You don't need a boating license for pleasure boats in Haarlem unless your boat is longer than 15m or can exceed a speed of 20 kilometres an hour. If only exploring the centre, then anything more than a canal cruiser or a tender is unnecessary as the speed limits are low and some of the smaller canals have bridges that are too small for tall boats to pass through.
For larger and faster vessels, a watercraft licence is necessary, though which one you'll need generally comes down to the size of your vessel. For most uses, a Klein Vaarbewijs is more than enough or an equivalent such as an ICC (International Certificate for Operators of Pleasure Craft).
Exploring Haarlem with a hired boat is delightful year-round, with the best weather from mid-Spring to early autumn, and temperate but pleasant warmth making the canals a beautiful place to eat lunch, get a drink or attend an event.
Boat hire is available year-round, even in winter, but it's not uncommon for the canals to freeze over, so you might need to swap the boat for ice skates should the temperatures plummet.
Canoes and dinghies are available for as little as €39 a day in Haarlem, and many motorboats have a minimum rental period of 2-4 hours, with prices from €70 - €159.
Large tenders and boats suitable for groups tend to be the most expensive with prices often around €150-€250 for two hours, but they come with seats enough for 20+, making them economical when the group is large enough, and extras such as food and drinks can be arranged for an additional fee.
